this motto,' Soveignez,' and the letter S, garnished with
a great variety of valuable jewels."1
If Henry IV. bore such a decoration while he was
Earl of Derby, he must have done so as the cognizance
of his father; because in the list of King Richard's
treasures it is distinctly stated to be of the livery of Mons. de Lancaster, a title which the Earl had not attained
till after he was in exile; unless we imagine that
the composers of that Inventory substituted the word
Lancaster for Derby, a supposition in which we cannot
indulge, inasmuch as if they made any complimentary
alteration in the catalogue, it may be presumed that
they would have described it as the livery of the "now
King."
Admitting, then, that the collar of SS was of the
livery of the Lancastrian family both before and after
Henry IV. became king, the next inquiry is, what persons
were entitled to wear it. The hypothesis supported
by several writers of eminence, that it belonged to the
dignity and degree of a knight, seems to be contradicted
by two facts. The first of these is, that of the numerous
brasses which remain of those who held that degree,
the great majority are undistinguished by the collar. The second is, that in the 'Acte for
Reformacyon of Excesse
in Appayrale,' 24 Henry VIII. c. 13, it is enacted,
" that no man oneless he be a Knyght. . . weare any
color of Gold named a color of S." From this, though
it may indicate that knights wore the collar at that time,
it may be clearly inferred that it had been previously
assumed by other persons; and as this is the first hint
of any limitation of its use, nearly a century and a half
after its introduction, it leaves us uninstructed as to
those who were privileged to wear it in the intervening
period.
It appears by one of the charges against the
Archbishop
1 Devon's Issues of Exchequer, p. 305.
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